HEADERS AND EXHAUST
WHICH TYPE OF HEADER and WHAT SIZE
EXHAUST SYSTEM?
IT’S NEXT TO IMPOSSIBLE TO PRODUCE A FULLY FUNCTIONAL HEADER ON A FACTORY
VEHICLE PLATFORM! IT DOESN'T MATTER WHETHER IT’S A SHORTY, A 4 INTO 1 OR TRI-Y
STYLE HEADER. HERE’S MY VERY CONDENSED SKINNY ON STREET HEADERS.
THE 1ST CRITICAL AREA IS THE MERGE AREA FROM THE EXHAUST PORT TO THE HEADER
FLANGE ALONG WITH THE FIRST 2 TO 4 INCHES OF HEADER TUBING, IT NEEDS TO BE
STRAIGHT! THE SECOND MOST CRITICAL AREA IS THE "CLOCKING" OF THE INDIVIDUAL
HEADER TUBES AT THE COLLECTOR INLET. HERE IT MUST BE ROTATIONAL WITH THE GIVEN
ENGINES IGNITION FIRING ORDER! THEN DEPENDING ON THE GIVEN ENGINES NUMBER OF
CYLINDERS AND PISTON SWEPT AREA, ALONG WITH THE INTENDED USAGE YOU CAN DETERMINE
THE TUBING DIAMETER AND PRIMARY / COLLECTOR LENGTH.
I’M FULLY AWARE ALL THE MANUFACTURES INFLATE THEIR POWER NUMBERS IN ORDER TO
SELL PRODUCTS, BUT EVERY FACTORY CAST IRON EXHAUST MANIFOLD APPLICATION WILL
BENEFIT FROM A TUBULAR HEADER INSTALLATION. FROM 1999-UP ALL TOYOTA VEHICLES ARE
EQUIPPED WITH A GOOD MANDREL BENT STAINLESS STEEL EXHAUST SYSTEM, ALL THAT’S
MISSING IS A BETTER MUFFLER!
IT’S YOU, THE CUSTOMER, THAT IS ULTIMATELY RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR PURCHASING
DECISIONS. MAGAZINE EDITORS IN GENERAL ARE LIKE POLITICIANS (MANUFACTURES "PAY"
FOR THEIR PRODUCT REVIEW'S)
I RECOMMEND YOU BASE YOUR PURCHASES ON QUALITY; LOOK FOR "CLEAN" INLET AND
OUTLET THROAT AREA’S, ONE PIECE TUBES ARE ALWAYS STRONGER THAN A SERIES OF
WELDED JOINTS, STAY AWAY FROM ANY HEADER WITH UGLY "POP CORN" WELDS.
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